Science

Why the tide comes in twice a day

The Moon pulls the ocean towards it, which explains one bulge. The second one, on the opposite side of the Earth, is the part worth understanding.

Wide tidal mudflats exposed at low tide around Mont Saint-Michel.
Tidal flats at low tide. Photograph by John Samuel, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

Key takeaways

  • Tides come from the difference in the Moon's pull across the Earth, not from its pull as such.
  • There are two bulges: one facing the Moon, one on the far side.
  • Earth rotates through both in a day, which is why most coasts get two high tides.
  • The lunar day is about 24 hours 50 minutes, so tides run roughly 50 minutes later each day.
  • Local geography can amplify, delay or entirely reshape the pattern.

The Moon pulls on the ocean, so the water rises on the side facing it. That much is intuitive and it is roughly right. It also predicts one high tide a day, and most coastlines get two.

The second high tide happens on the side of the Earth pointing directly away from the Moon, which is the part that needs explaining.

It is the difference in pull that matters

Gravity weakens with distance. The Earth is about 12,700 kilometres across, so the near side is meaningfully closer to the Moon than the far side, and is pulled slightly harder.

Consider three things: the ocean on the near side, the solid Earth as a whole, and the ocean on the far side. The Moon pulls all three, but by different amounts. The near ocean is pulled hardest, the Earth’s centre next, and the far ocean least.

Now take the Earth’s centre as your reference point, since that is what the whole planet moves with. Relative to it, the near ocean is being pulled forward, towards the Moon. And the far ocean, pulled less strongly than the Earth’s centre, gets left behind: relative to the Earth, it moves outward, away from the Moon.

So you get a bulge on each side. Not because anything pushes the far side, but because the Earth is pulled out from under it.

Why there are two tidal bulges rather than oneThe Earth with its ocean drawn as an ellipse stretched along the line to the Moon, giving a bulge on the near side and a matching one on the far side, with low water at right angles to both. Below, three bars compare the strength of the Moon’s pull on the near ocean, on the Earth’s centre and on the far ocean. The near ocean is pulled hardest and moves towards the Moon; the far ocean is pulled least and is left behind as the Earth is drawn out from under it.Two bulges, and the Earth turns through bothEarthMoonhigh waterpulled towardsthe Moonhigh waterleft behind as theEarth is pulled awaylow waterlow waterIt is the difference in pull that matters, not the pullnear oceanclosest, pulled hardestEarth’s centrethe reference the planet moves withfar oceanfurthest, pulled least, so it lagsRelative to the centre, the near ocean moves towards the Moon and the far ocean moves away from it.A coast rotates through both bulges in one lunar day of about 24 hours 50 minutes,which is why the tide runs roughly 50 minutes later each day.
Nothing pushes the far side outward. The Earth is simply pulled out from under it, and that is enough to raise a second high tide on the hemisphere pointing away from the Moon. Diagram by HRITU; the bulges are hugely exaggerated relative to the Earth.

This difference in gravitational pull across an extended body is called the tidal force, and it turns up throughout astronomy. It is the same effect that stretched the Moon slightly and eventually locked its rotation, described in why the Moon always shows us the same face.

The Earth turns through both

The two bulges stay roughly lined up with the Moon while the Earth rotates underneath them. Any point on a coast therefore passes through a bulge, then a low, then the other bulge, then another low, in the course of one rotation relative to the Moon.

Two highs and two lows a day. Not because the water sloshes back and forth, but because the coast is moving through a standing pattern.

Why the tide is late every day

Anyone who has spent a week by the sea notices that high tide slips later each day by roughly three quarters of an hour.

The reason is that the Moon has moved. The Earth takes about 24 hours to rotate once relative to the Sun, but in that time the Moon has travelled onward in its orbit, so the Earth must turn a little further to bring the same point back under it. That extra turn takes about 50 minutes, making the lunar day roughly 24 hours and 50 minutes, and the tides keep to the lunar day rather than the solar one.

Spring tides and neap tides

The Sun raises tides too. It is enormously more massive than the Moon but also enormously further away, and because tidal force depends on the difference in pull across the Earth rather than the total, distance matters more here than mass. The Sun’s tidal effect works out at roughly half the Moon’s.

When the Sun, Earth and Moon are in line, at new moon and full moon, the two effects reinforce and the tidal range is at its largest. These are spring tides, and the name has nothing to do with the season; it is spring in the sense of leaping up.

When the Moon is at a quarter phase, the Sun is pulling at right angles to it, the two partly cancel, and the range is at its smallest. Those are neap tides. The cycle between them runs about two weeks.

Then geography rewrites all of it

Everything above describes an idealised Earth covered by a uniform ocean. The real planet has continents, and they break the ocean into basins that each respond in their own way.

Water in a basin sloshes at a natural period set by its size and depth. Where that period is close to the tidal period, the tide is amplified, sometimes dramatically. The Bay of Fundy is the standard example, with a range of many metres, produced by a basin that happens to resonate with the tide and a bay that narrows and funnels the water. Mont Saint-Michel, with its famous expanse of exposed sand at low water, is another.

At the other extreme, a nearly enclosed sea like the Mediterranean has very little tidal range, because it is too small to develop much of one and its connection to the Atlantic is narrow.

And in some basins the geometry favours one cycle a day over two. Parts of the Gulf of Mexico and of Southeast Asia have a single daily high tide, which is not a failure of the two-bulge explanation so much as a reminder that the explanation describes the driving force and not the response.

This is why tide tables are computed locally and why they are indispensable. The astronomy sets the rhythm; the coastline decides what actually arrives.

The same tidal force, acting over hundreds of millions of years, is what produced the Moon we always see one side of. For another property of the sea that turns out to have a simple cause, why the sea is salty.

Sources

  1. Tide
  2. Tidal force
  3. Theory of tides

Frequently asked questions

Yes, though its tidal effect is about half the Moon's despite being vastly more massive, because tides depend on the difference in pull across the Earth rather than the total pull, and the Sun is very far away. When Sun and Moon line up, at new and full moon, the two effects add and you get the larger spring tides. When they are at right angles, at the quarter moons, they partly cancel and you get smaller neap tides.

Because the two-bulge model describes an idealised ocean covering a smooth globe, and the real ocean is divided by continents into basins that each have their own natural rhythm. In some basins the geometry reinforces one daily cycle and suppresses the other, giving a single high tide a day. Parts of the Gulf of Mexico and of Southeast Asia behave this way.

Resonance and funnelling. A bay whose natural sloshing period is close to the tidal period will amplify the tide considerably, and a channel that narrows forces the same volume of water into a smaller space. The Bay of Fundy is the best-known example, with a range of many metres, while a small enclosed sea like the Mediterranean has very little tide at all.

HRITU Editorial Desk is the byline for pieces produced in-house by the HRITU editorial team. We write about cooking, travel, science and everyday knowledge, and we explain the reasoning behind what we publish rather than just stating conclusions. Every article is checked against primary or reference sources before it goes out, dated on publication, and updated in the open when we learn something is wrong. Corrections and questions are welcome at info@hritu.com.

Join the discussion